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By Charlotte Pemberton

There is a particular kind of afternoon that British cooks know well: the sun is out, the back door is open, and someone has arrived with a folding chair and a hopeful expression. What that moment calls for is not a complicated cocktail or a bottle of something fizzy opened in a rush. It calls for a jug — generous, cold, filled with fruit, and easy enough that you can make a second one without thinking.
A fruit cup built on lemonade, cucumber, mint and strawberries fits that brief exactly. It is soft but grown-up, sweet but herbal, and it improves as it sits in the fridge. Serve it in tall glasses with plenty of ice and it will disappear faster than anything else on the table, whether your guests are drinking alcohol or not.
This makes enough for six generous glasses, or four people who are taking the afternoon seriously. You will need a jug of about two litres.
Reserve four strawberry halves and four mint sprigs for garnish. Everything else goes into the jug.
The order matters more than you might expect. Start with the fruit. Drop the strawberries in first and press them very lightly with the end of a wooden spoon — just enough to break the surface, not to pulp them. You want juice, not jam.
Next, add the cucumber ribbons and the mint. Here is where most home cooks go wrong: do not shred, tear or aggressively muddle the mint. Bruised mint releases chlorophyll and turns bitter within twenty minutes. Instead, clap each sprig once between your palms to wake it up, then drop it in whole.
Pour over the fruit cup liqueur, then the lemonade. Stir once, slowly, from the bottom. Cover the jug and refrigerate for at least thirty minutes and up to two hours. This is the step that separates a good fruit cup from a disappointing one — the cucumber and mint need time to scent the liquid.
Only add the sparkling water and ice immediately before serving. Ice added early simply dilutes everything you have just built.
For picnics and garden gatherings, a little forward planning pays off. Freeze a handful of strawberries and small mint leaves into ice cubes the night before. They chill the drink without watering it down and look charming in the glass.
At home, set the jug on a tray with a stack of tall glasses and a small dish of extra cucumber ribbons. Guests serve themselves, and you stay out of the kitchen.
The formula — one part liqueur or cordial, four parts lemonade, plenty of fruit and herbs — is endlessly adaptable. As the summer moves on, swap in what looks best.
For a rosé version, replace 200ml of the lemonade with a dry pink wine and reduce the liqueur to 100ml. For a completely alcohol-free jug, use elderflower cordial and add a splash more lemonade to taste.
A fruit cup is a drink for grazing, not for a formal sit-down. Keep the food simple, salty and easy to eat with one hand.
Cucumber sandwiches on buttered white bread echo the drink beautifully. Sausage rolls, a wedge of quiche, new potatoes in a mustardy dressing, and a bowl of salted crisps cover the savoury side. For pudding, shortbread and a bowl of strawberries with a little caster sugar and a squeeze of lemon is all you need.
One last piece of advice: make double. The first jug always goes in under twenty minutes, and there is nothing sadder than an empty glass on a warm afternoon.
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